JUNE 8TH AND ON - June 8th and on, things have been a little hairy. We went aground on our way into a marina at Sorel QU. So I got to practice my radio skills. Chatted with the Coast Guard a bit. But we got lucky. With Gregory`s relentless trying and some big waves from a power boat, he removed us from the mud. That night we motored into a beautiful cove and had a quiet evening away from the power boats. Yesterday, was a bit of a horror show. As we were motoring out of our pretty little cove, with the extremely tight channel, Tepuki`s motor went quiet. So we sailed our way out. By this time the winds were up and we were barreling down the river with two reefs in the main. The sailing was incredible except were trying to get the stinky diesel running. Paul and I both taking turns bleeding the fuel lines. After the third attempt of bleeding the lines the motor fired and stayed on. At this point we decided we should get in to make repairs. The River was now going to remind us who was in charge. With the winds gusting 25 - 30knots the marina`s entrance was just too dangerous to enter. So I got to practice my radio skills again. And with the help of a Coast Guard lifeboat (with two huge 150 outboards) they brought our sorry asses into the marina. So it was a big day of school for us. At this point the boat is fine and so are we. I`ve talked to the Coast Guard and locals about the tides and currents. So were on track with that. The motor must have picked up some dirt and it seems to be running fine (knock on wood).

LEFT TROIX RIVIERES ON JUNE 9TH - We left Troies Rivieres on June 9th, 2:30pm. After the way we arrived, we were concerned as the wind picked up, but made it out without incident. With a newfound respect for sailing on the St. Lawerence River, were off to Quebec. The Rapides Richeliu carried us down the river at average 6.5knots for ten hours. Gregory sailed the the whindy markers carefully. The shoals run out from both sides of the river. You sail right by massive chunks of granite. Intimidating to see. You also have to share the path with the enormous tankers heading for Hamilton. We sailed under the Quebec bridge at about 11:30pm. There's about 200ft of water, so no chance of running aground here.

There's now a radar system installed and the wind power is up and running. When the weather turns in our favor, we'll be off. Although being a little weathered in at Quebec City is not so bad. It's like sailing into a European port, without the Atlantic crossing part. Good food, everyone's nice even the ones tortured with the ten words of french we know between us. Next stops will be Ile aux Coudres and then onto Tadoussac. Hopefully with some whales to guide our way. Sailing the St. Lawerence River is like white water rafting that doesn`t stop.

LEAVING QUEBEC CITY JUNE 15 TH - On June 15th we left Quebec City under cloudy skies expecting a clear afternoon. Instead we smashed into a northeast blowing at twenty-five knots. And a tide moving under us at four knots in the opposite direction of the wind. Old salts say you can’t judge wave height from your boat, so I won’t. But these were the biggest waves I’ve ever encountered in a sailboat. They kicked the crap out of us. As we tried to motor up the wall of water the boat couldn’t make it up. With the tiller pointed in one direction, the boat went the opposite. We had bite off more than we could chew. The wave threw us sideways and returning to Quebec seemed like the thing to do. This was no treat running these waves. At one point I had my safety harness and myself wrap around the mast clinging on for dear life. As Gregory was hollering ``hold on!``. I’ve never felt more scared. Teupki heeled hard and I found myself staring at the dark river.

The waves mellowed closer to Quebec harbour. At this point, I'd decided I was heading home on the next train. Screw this voyage stuff, give me my little dinghy in Toronto harbour. Thank you Mom and Dad for the chit chat to get my head back in order. That evening we were walking around the Quebec Marina and found an American. Mike Ritenour who does voyaging instruction on his 33 foot Corbin, "LaVida". So we made him our new boat buddy, whether he wanted it or not. Thanks Mike, for all the advice.

NEXT DAY, OFF AGAIN! - The next day were off again. It was a smooth seventy two mile motor/sail east of Quebec city. Nice to have an experienced voices only a radio call away. On June 17th, the trip to Tadousaac should have been an easy thirty miles. We’re flying along at about eleven knots over ground and 450 feet of water under the boat. Pas de problem. Until we sail into this crazy rip in the river. As we approach, it looks like a shoal because of all the seaweed in it. But there’s no shoal on the charts. We try and hold the boat in the current. It had a creepy feel to it. The depth sounder suddenly stops working. Then flashes a bunch and then shows a depth of ten feet. Too much Bermuda Triangle stuff going on here. So we continue to sail through. We should have stayed.

We arrived at the mouth of the Saguenay River about three hours too early. The water pouring out of the river can have a current of nine knots. So now we find our dumb asses fighting off the sandbars as the wind and current pushes us towards them. Were sailing hard in one direction, but the lighthouse on the shoal behind us is getting closer and closer. So we completely change our course for downriver and went around the island of shoals.

At this point I figured Tadoussac is out, but we really want to go. So we used an Atlas of Currents to figure out where the least amount of current was. Sailing along the edge of the shoal line we cut hard across the strong current and into the mouth of the Saguenay. With the motor cranked and all the sail up we smashed our way through the current. The winch handle and sun block were floating in the cockpit. Even being pounded the boat held its line and even felt somewhat balanced. It restored my confidence.

Now were chilling with the whales in Tadousaac. Quebec`s little secret. Met great people here and having lots of fun. Our St. Lawerence schooling has taught us lots about sailing and more about ourselves. Mostly the experience level were at. So it looks like a course change for Nova Scotia. We may even make it for Lobster Carnival.

JUNE 19TH WERE HEADED FOR RIMOUSKI - June 19th, were heading for Rimouski. Hooked up with another Contessa heading there. Good to have company.

JUNE 22 WE ENDED UP LEAVING TADOUSAAC ONE DAY LATER THAN EXPECTED - June 22, 2003 We ended up leaving Tadousaac, Que. a day later than expected. There was a miscalculation on the tide due to some extra time spent in the pub. Travelling towards Gaspe with us now is another Contessa with three aboard. The more the merrier. Leaving Matane, Que., this morning we watch a pod of whales feeding. Not a bad way to have breakfast. We arrive in St. Anne de Mont. Capt Plouf, from the other Contessa, takes us and friends out on the St. Lawerence for the "Sea of Oil". The only way I can describe it is when the sunset blends into the river and the river looks like an orange pool of oil. Ya gotta see it for yourself. We've had two days of light sailing and two days of long motoring.

A little note from Paul Gregory. Both days of sailing we arrived three hours ahead of the other boat. Lucky with the wind? Maybe we can actually sail! Were bouncing towards Grand Vallee against 15 knot winds for St. Jean Baptist celebrations. The Notre-Dame Mountains on the Gaspe Bay Peninsula tower along the coast and are dotted with villages with a big church in everyone. I think there are so many churches because everyone is praying for good weather. I've never been so happy to see a church when it marks the entry to a sheltered port.

JUNE 28 GASPE - June 28, 2003 Galkdo (the other Contessa) is home in Gaspe and we’re travelling alone again. It took ten hours to cross the Bay of Chaleur. We had the feeling of being completed surrounded by water for about three hours. Were now in New Brunswick. The last province till were home. We stayed in Ste. Marie sur Mer. A nice little fishing village that had an unique visitor. A pelican. The 80 year old gentleman, helping us find diesel, told us he'd never seen such a bird in these parts. The bird had the whole town out snapping pictures while a fisherman feed it mackerel.

JUNE 29 - HURRAY WIND! - Hurray Wind! The Miscou Banks are a mine field of lobster buoys. Forget about chartering a course. Just keep moving left and right. Were lucky the season will be over in two days. We left the village with a nice wind moving us along at six knots. Moving our way through the lobster traps is fun with good wind. Teupki is so much fun to sail. Tighten in the main and she'll point herself up just as quick as an Albacore, if not smoother.

JULY 1 - ESCUMINAC TO DOCHIBOUGAC NATIONAL PARK - July 1 We travel from Escuminac to Kochibougac National Park. The park was created in 1971. Another beautiful spot on our journey. Had great conversation with local fishermen. Surprise all the chaos with the fisheries has more to do with a small mafia type of rich fisherman being greedy, than it has to do with natives vs non-natives. We media need to check our focus on that story.

JULY 2, SHEDIAC, N.B. - July 2 Were in Shediac, N.B. Were about 2 days from home. Depending on tropical storm Bill, but he's not supposed to come this far north... we hope. Just to add one last thing. The near death experiences have seem to subsided for which were are very happy. We'll be home soon.

Shediac, New Brunswick to Pictou, Nova Scotia is about 125 nautical miles. Leaving Shediac, at 8am, the main is set with two reefs and the storm jib flying. We've got twenty five knot winds right on the beam. This is some the best sailing on the whole trip. We blow off the first thirty-five miles in record time and figure we'll be in Pictou for last call. We pass under the imposing Confederation Bridge running from NB to PEI and it also seems to be the finishing line for the wind. Now we have 0 to 3 knots. The sails are fluttering. So much for last call.

LOVE-HATE RELATIONSHIP WITH THE MOTOR - We have a love/hate relationship with the motor. Its saves our asses, so we love it. Just hate to here the thing running. By 9:00pm were trying to get into Skinners Wharf along the Sunrise Trail of Nova Scotia. We haven't check the tides but figure if fishing boats are getting in and out we'll be fine. Not so yells the guy on the dock. There's only three feet in there! So we turn to head on, but now the fella on the dock thinks maybe we can make it. So out he comes in his mini-tug boat, called Streaker, with a big naked Homer Simpson on the side. A portait scene.

Teupkei (correct spelling) glides beautifully through the water as the sun decendes behind the hills. And ever so gently parks on the sandbar. Its a quick drag off the bar and were into the darkness. When its pitch black and you can only see a few specks of light my eyes start playing tricks. Is that light moving towards us? I hope we don't hit any fishing buoys. We hear a Canadian warship hailing another boat in the area that they think is in trouble. Were within ten miles of the ship but can't see a thing. This freaks me out because he's way bigger! But Gregory motored another twenty miles to Caribou Ferry terminal without incident. We tied up at 3am. Were awaken by the first ferry crossing at 6:30am but crash back out.

WE MAKE IT HOME - We leave the dock about 9am. Gregory says "just pull the jib". So with a couple of fisherman watching our little feat, we leave the dock under sail, no motor! Its an exciting feeling as the momentum builds. We sail out the channel with passengers waving from a passing ferry. I feel like I'm part of the landscape. The wind turns onto the boat's nose as we head up to Pictou Harbour. The wind is making us work to get home. We beat our way home, through the narrow opening of the harbour and pass the lighthouse that we looked upon from our childhood. What a cool way to come home! Paul Gregory's parents and niece were waving to us as we worked our way along the shores of the harbour. We had Teupkei healed over, under full sail, as we passed Pier C in Pictou. We made it home.

Now its just four days til Lobster Carnival and I've got Teupkei docked downtown. Its nice to have a little pad down on the water. And I don't really want to leave the boat. Lots of people come by to share boat stories and gab. So if your by the old ship Hector in Pictou over the next week stop by and say hi.

Enjoying life.

Paul Borkwood

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